McLeodganj, June 22 – When one think of monks the immediate visualization comes is of someone leading a secluded life away from the worldly strife. But the monks of Namgyal monastery in McLeodganj, Dharamshala may change this perception.
Situated next to the Dalai Lama’s private residence, Namgyal is the hub for religious activity and tourists who come to Dharamsala. One of the most striking images that stay in the minds of tourists is the sight of a monk clicking away on a mouse inside a cyber cafe.
Cyber cafes are busy places in McLeodganj. The monks are frequent visitors to cyber cafes chatting, instant messaging and emailing friends all over the world. No surprise therefore, that some monks in Namgyal carry cellphones too. Obviously, worldwide trends are leaving a mark on the lifestyles of monks in Dharamshala.
Namgyal monks are a privileged lot. The opportunity to accompany the Dalai Lama on visits abroad has enabled them to participate in numerous presentations of Tibetan sacred art and dance in the US, Europe and Japan.
Novice monks at Namgyal undertake years of study focusing on the essentials of Buddhist philosophy. In addition to this intensive programme, students are also instructed in the art of sculpture, music as also debating.
As one walks up the steps of the Tsuglagkhang complex in the evening, the sounds of loud clapping and shouting emanate from the courtyard. No, it s not a fight or a karate class in progress. It s just the monks debating.
The senior monks sit while the junior monks stand and try to convince them, moving rhythmically as they argue and finishing with a resounding clap when they have made their point.
Eighteen-year-old Tenzing Gawa and his partner Namthong were debating on life after death. On being asked whether it was tough to avoid distraction in the midst of curious onlookers, Gawa admits it is a bit disconcerting sometimes but then concentration is the key.
Many tourists come to catch a glimpse of the Dalai Lama. But when he is away in Ladakh, they can have a dekko at the monks debating.
Gawa has been here for three years and loves life in the monastery.
What do monks at Namgyal do for entertainment? “There’s always plenty to do. We have a lot to study. Still, when we get time, we read books, newspapers or recite beads of the rosary. We don’t watch television or movies,” says Gawa.
Are the monks internet-savvy? “Some of them access email. I don’t have an email account myself but I do browse the Internet sometimes,” says Gawa.
Food at the monastery is vegetarian and normally the staple diet includes rice, dal and vegetables. But breakfast may not quite suit the Indian palate.
“In the mornings, we generally have Tibetan bread and tea. All may not like the tea because we put salt, butter and milk in it,” says an amused Gawa.
When asked about his plans to visit the rest of the country, Gawa, who spent his early years in a Tibetan settlement at Mungod in South India, smiles. I visited Delhi with my friends in March last year. It was too hot. I visited the Red Fort and the Raj Ghat,” he says.
Meanwhile, away from the noise in the courtyards, a Tibetan monk in his late twenties stands guard at the central cathedral. Tenzing accepts offerings from devotees and tries to ensure that tourists do not make noise within the temple complex.
Soon the crowds thin and Tenzing is ready for a chat. Is everybody named Tenzing here? It is a very common Tibetan name. So, you will meet a lot of people who answer to that name, says Tenzing with a grin.
An avid photographer, Tenzing says he knows everything about the camera.
Is he not missing the debates in the courtyard? Well, today it is my duty to stand here. Tomorrow, somebody else will have to do it. Its like working in shifts, says Tenzing.
Most monks at the monastery came here after escaping religious persecution at the hands of China in Tibet. Tenzing’s parents are still in Tibet and he misses them a lot.
After all, I have been here since the age of thirteen. But, I manage to talk to them on the phone sometimes.
It is prasad, explains Tenzing, which is distributed among devotees during festivals.
Chocolate prasad! It seems other places of worship in India could do well to imitate this practice.
