News and Views on Tibet

Will Dharamsala’s 150 years go unmarked?

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Dharamsala, June 9 – The sesquicentennial (150th) anniversary of Dharamsala, the famous hill resort and the seat of the Dalai Lama’s government-in-exile, might, unlike Dalhousie’s, go unmarked if the lackadaisical and slumbering mood of the local administration and public representatives is any indication.

Dalhousie in Himachal Pradesh’s Chamba district celebrated its 150th anniversary in October last year. The celebrations lasted three days and state Chief Minister Virbhadra Singh was chief guest on the concluding day function. Prominent and illustrious people from various fields associated with Dalhousie were honoured by the administration and souvenirs released to commemorate the occasion.

Quite in contrast, there is no such proposal for Dharamsala, which completes 150 years of its establishment as the district headquarters this year.

Dharamsala, which was once the hot weather seat of the commissioner of Jalandhar Division during the British Raj, was officially declared and established the district headquarters of Kangra in 1855.

With the majestic Dhauladhar ranges forming the perfect backdrop, Dharamsala, which is perched at altitudes varying between 4,580 ft to 7,000 ft, remains a favourite tourist hangout.

It has been love at first sight for many who have visited Dharamsala. For example, G.C. Barnes, deputy commissioner of Kangra district during 1847-1851, remarked, “No scenery, in my opinion, presents such a sublime and delightful contrast!”

English travellers E.M. Forster and Moorcroft, who widely traversed the Dhauladhar ranges that surround Dharamsala, also described the charms and beauty of the city in their respective travelogues.

Much later, Dharamsala shot to global fame following the Dalai Lama’s arrival in 1959. Consequently, several native and international celebs and statesmen have visited the picturesque hill town. To name some, British royalty like the Duke of Gloucester and the Duchess of York, models Cindy Crawford and Christy Turlington and Hollywood actors Pierce Brosnan, Steven Seagal, Harrison Ford, Goldie Hawn and Richard Gere. And closer home, industrialist Anil Ambani and actors Sunil Dutt, Raj Kapoor and Vinod Khanna.

Goldie Hawn and Richard Gere, with their philanthropic work, are closely associated with Dharamsala while the legendary Bollywood icon Dev Anand is the product of a local degree college. Besides, Jang Bahadur Thapa of Dharamsala earned fame for having composed music for the national anthem.

Interestingly, Dharamsala was first on the list when the British were looking for a summer capital. The Indian summer was not something the British were familiar with and Dharamsala was their chosen spot. But, following a catastrophic quake in 1905, which confirmed that the area was highly prone to tectonic activity, the colonials dismissed the idea – finally deciding on Shimla.

The cynosure of Dharamsala is McLeodganj, which is more popular as Little Lhasa. Named after Sir Donald McLeod, the former lieutenant governor of Punjab province, McLeodganj is the house of Tibetan culture.

There is only one way to describe the experience – Tibetan. Name it and you have it — Tibetan cuisine, Tibetan jewellery, Tibetan handlooms and Tibetan shanties.

At first glance, an outsider to Dharamsala gets the impression of bonhomie; it appears to be a peaceful, happy town where “God is in heaven and all is well in the land of the Buddha”.

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