Seven families keep the prayer flags flying in a faraway city
By Sharmila Ganesan
We are like the gypsies, adapting easily to our constantly changing surroundings,” says Kamal Karma Lama with the serene smile of all mountain people. Buddhist chants ooze through his dimly lit Tibetan restaurant, Sernya (Gold Fish). He speaks English with a slight accent and Hindi fluently. Not the Bambaiya kind, but with a touch of Urdu. “ Zindagi mein aage badhne ke liye taqdeer (fate) aur tadbeer (contacts) dono ka saath hona chahiye,’’ he says philosophically, referring to his journey this far.
Lama started Sernya to keep his Tibetan roots alive and provide a meeting point for this tiny community, lost in Mumbai’s stew of ethnicities. “It’s very difficult to maintain our identity, but it’s important to be in touch with our base.”
One of Mumbai’s seven Tibetan families, he regrets being alienated from his mother tongue since even his parents did not speak it because they lived in Sikkim. But he tries to pass on as much knowledge about his religion to his kids as he can, through stories and legends. And whenever the family catches Tibet on Discovery channel, it feels a renewed surge of identity. “It’s like meeting a relative in a foreign country. We feel like we are in Tibet for that moment,’’ says Lama.
Of course, he gets a lot of “Are you Nepalese or Assamese?’’ from curious train co-passengers and other city dwellers but Lama laughs that off. “ I can’t tell a Maharashtrian from a South Indian, it’s no different from that..’’ His daughter Yangche, a commerce student at HR College agrees, “I do miss having Tibetan friends sometimes, but that’s ok.’’
Prod Lama about Tibet and he confesses to being strictly apolitical. He doesn’t believe in being part of any association as “they only protest’’. “I was born and brought up here. We are free citizens of this country, we have nothing to protest about.’’
The few occasions that this tiny outpost meets is the Tibetan New Year, Losar which falls in February , Buddha Jayanti and the birthday of the 14th Dalai Lama. “The Guru is revered and is placed at a higher pedestal than even God,’’ according to Lama. “Our religion preaches respect above all. Being hasty or abrupt is construed as disrespect,’’ he smiles, adding that Tibetans are a calm, composed lot. “They are not overly ambitious.’’
The one place where Tibet comes alive most, though is on the platter. Mumbaikars may not know the country beyond `momos’ and `thukpas’, but Lama’s menu proves that this is only a brilliant trailer.
“We fry stuff for the Inidan palate, but Tibetan food is largely steamed and very healthy, adds Lama. Yak butter is a constant in most Tibetan delicacies. “But we don’t get it here, so we use Amul,’’ he shrugs .
Inter-community marriage is inevitable, and, interestingly, “Most of the Tibetans here marry South Indians (Iyers),’’ he says. The customs and traditions of marriage are followed uniformly as prescribed by the religion, irrespective of where they find themselves. Tibetans usually marry in the monastery at Worli. But it’s not exactly Tibetan, as there are no lamas there. “Also, an Ambedkar hall has been opened in Parel for Buddhists, but even that does not have monks.” It’s difficult to find an ordained lama who is supposed to perform the ceremony. On account of his `gharana’, Lama is in touch with the monks and is usually contacted by those wanting to get married.
If some Mumbai street corners, unlike in Delhi, and more so Darjeeling and Sikkim, are devoid of the aroma of steaming hot momos it’s because there’s no Tibetan `camp’ here. “We need a monastery of our own with lamas to nurture the culture. More Tibetans will then be inspired to stay,’’ he says.
Poet Tenzin Tsundue dreams of dying in Tibet. But Lama says he would rather stay in the place he calls home. “Ask any Tibetan born and brought up here. They wouldn’t want to go to Tibet. Just like the Chinese here wouldn’t want to go to China. Why would they go?’’
OBJECTS OF IDENTITY Thukpa ( noodle soup) and Momos ( chicken or pork dumplings) Butter tea — the salty beverage that Tibetans wake up to up all over the world. Kaalachakra —a `Yajna’ performed by monks to get rid of evil spirits or sins. Bakkhu—the traditional Tibetan women’s dress. Married women add an apron called Pangden. Khada—the traditional scarf (generally white) used to adorn idols instead of garlands. Chinlap—sanctified coloured wheat grains given to the family as blessings from the Guru.
Momos
3 finely chopped medium onions 1 tablespoon of freshly ground ginger and garlic 2 tablespoons of cooking oil 1/2 teaspoon jeera powder 1 tablespoon of salt 2 tablespoons of soya sauce 1 teaspoon of sesame oil 3 tablespoons of hot water 1 kg minced chicken 3 cups of self-raising flour 3 cups of plain flour cold Water
Method
Combine the two flours and add the cold water a little at a time. Knead the dough for about 5 minutes
Leave to stand for at least 30 mins at room temperature. Add the hot water, chopped onion, oil, salt and spice to the mince and mix well. Roll out the dough as thin as possible (on a well floured surface) and cut into 4 inch rounds. Start boiling water in the steamer. Put a teaspoon of the chicken mixture on each round and fold over into a half-moon shape, pinch edges tightly to seal.
Smear oil on the inside of the steamer and on each momo. Put momos in the steamer; make sure they don’t touch each other Cover and steam for 15-20 minutes. Serve with chilli sauce.
Kamal Karma Lama with his family
